Second Up: Huaraz, Peru

Two days back in Lima and then it was off to Huaraz with Nikhil who came to visit. It was refreshing to be back in the mountains, surrounded by greenery and fresh air again. We stayed at this lovely place called Lazy Dog Inn that is not only eco-conscious with its organic gardens, recycling and eucalyptus fireplaces but socially conscious, supporting a local school.

The Inn embraced you in its warm colors of reds, oranges and yellows; complimented by dark wooding and art and décor from all over the world. During the evenings in the main lodge, there was always a fire burning, guests lounging on plush sofas and sipping tea or wine. Nikhil and I usually breakfasted last out of everyone (though we kept trying to go earlier. Haha). Their jugos out of maracuya were my absolute favorite! And the homemade creamy soups! Yummy! Dinners were always great- more of a North American take than Peruvian- pasta with tomato or creamy mushroom sauce, fajitas, veggie and mashed potato soufflés- always with a salad from all their organic veggies; topped off with some yummy desserts like good old fashioned chocolate chip cookies and custards creams. With the cozy accommodations and excellent food, I felt truly pampered.

There were many lazy dogs around, two great big furry ones always dozing in the sun outside. There were also a handful of handsome horses, available to guests who wanted to book horseback riding. We decided to pass on horseback riding, but set out, planning to do three hikes in three days, pumped up from the beautiful settings and fresh air.
The first day in Huaraz (after resting a bit from our overnight 8-hour bus ride) Nikhil and I went for a short walk from the inn. We followed alongside a tiny creek that led us past herds of sheep, pigs cows and even bulls (that a woman was kind enough to keep a good distance from us!) Tiny houses lined the dirt path; we saw the people in their traditional dress of wide skirts and hats, colorful and varied. We asked directions from one senora, her two little girls playing outside. She was nice, engaging us in conversation as we stopped for directions. When she gestured to my camera, I asked her, “Would you like a picture?” She grinned and replied saucily, “Pay me first.” That made me laugh. They are sure used to tourists, even in this land that seemed to be far off the beaten path, most of the people there being farmers and herders.
On that first day, as soon as I reached the room to put my things down, my body realized it was pretty high up in altitude; my head began to feel light, sounds blurred together and I felt altogether mariada. As Nikhil and I went on that gentle walk, I struggled for air and felt my legs go weak. Altitude and I were definitely not best friends the first couple of days.

Needless to say, we set out for a hike the next day that Diana, owner of the inn, suggested to “acclimate” to the altitude. With our skills as city dwellers, we got lost trying to find the hike and ended up bushwalking in a deep ravine. After we climbed up the mountain, across a marshy field that soaked our shoes, and up another large hill, we found the right trail of the hike. However, as it was threatening to atardecer in the next hour or two, we decided to simply enjoy the view from atop of some rocks. We ran into a couple staying at the lodge making their way up.
The next day, we set out to tackle the Llanganuco Lake hike again, this time starting out right. First hour, going pretty strong; second hour, okay- but feeling the altitude and continuous upward slope of the mountain path- we decided to make good time and tried to walk a faster pace and take “shortcuts” – meaning crossing up rocky, steep paths. Whew! We finally got to the entrance of the National Huascaran Park entrance, just a few minutes before th family who was also staying at the lodge arrived in their SUV. We had a 15-minute break, waiting for the park ranger to collect fees and give us passes.

Back on the trail- and the trail only kept heading up and up- finally hitting a rocky road we followed until the meadows. I think I would have been perfectly content settling for just the meadows after already hiking three or four hours, gaining more altitude each minute. But Nikhil’s enthusiasm pushed us on.

The meadows were gorgeous, with a small river running all along, small waterfalls, flowers of reds and yellows just peaking out of the earth, large boulders scattered around and the sun beaming on us. As we continued on the hike, we ran into the family, having left their car at the bridge in the meadows, on their way to the same lake. We joined forces and pushed on, making our way up; on dirt roads, scrambling up mountainsides and crossing low waters. Finally, we made it to the lake. What a view! The lake was a gorgeous gem of blue on the mountaintop. I could finally smile and be enjoy this postcard picture from possibly the hardest hike I have ever done (altitude can really mess with you. Haha.) Later, our group decided to continue on to the glacier, further up. Tired but content, we forged on, over rocks and boulders. On our way there, the kids played with the tops of the lake that had frozen over, sheets of frosted crystals. After 45- minutes or so, we saw the glacier, an icy background of the lake. Exhausted, I decide3d to stay in the place we lunched, while Nikhil hiked onward to get to the glacier. It was the first time he’s seen a glacier! Later, he told me it might have been the hardest part of the hike. Lucky I decided not to do that part! My body was so tired, I curled on the rock as tight as I could (it had gotten cold up there later in the day) and closed my eyes, resting.

As we headed back, I got my second wind from lunch and the rest; I walked rapidly down the mountain, energized. Downhill felt like a breeze, especially since we had gratefully accepted the offer of the of the family to drive back to the lodge with them. So, as we walked to lower altitudes (the lake was probably about 3,500 meters), regaining our more normal breathing patterns, we got to enjo9y strolling through the meadows again; the boys kicking the soccer ball around and everyone trying to avoid stepping on cow pies and horse piles. In half an hour, we were back at the lodge, where soft beds and hot showers awaited, as well as a delicious dinner. Not a bad way to end the day.

Fiestas Patrias Vacation: Experiencing another part of Peru in two weeks

First Up: Tambogrande, Piura and a Smidge of Ecuador

It continues to amaze me how diverse Peru is, within each of its regions; different forms of dress, language, physical features and customs. The first week of my vacation I was more than ready to jump on that 15-hour bus with Sister Maria Laura and my friend, Jeny, to Piura. How exciting- my first vacation! The ride wasn’t too bad, with its semi-cama seats, snacks, drinks, meals and videos. Throw in some time for sleeping and I was set! Luck have it, Sister Marleny arranged for us to get a ride to the house in Tambogrande. From our views from the car, we got to see what makes up the majority of Piura: the chakras and produce (and lots and lots of sacks of limes!) What a lovely change from the combis, gas and overall noise of Lima.

The Sisters’ house in Tambogrande is lovely, big with a garden in the center of the house where you can lounge in a hammock to take in the sun (it’s sunny everyday!) and with a huge backyard full of pomegranate, mango and lime trees. Though life there is much different than here; most of the time I spent in the house, I never saw any of the Sisters. They are busy running around and serving the community in all the different campos. The second day there, Sister Marleny took us to visit many of the Fe y Alegria schools in the countryside’s. In the car, we bounced like Conejos on the rough, dirt roads as we made our way up the mountain, seeing a dozen or so schools- ranging from basic one-brick buildings’ to schools that taught agriculture, complimented with organic plots, a part that created fertilized dirt, a system for irrigation to use less water for plants and even barn to raise cuy (guinea pig)! It was great seeing all the different schools and even meeting some students.

The views were amazing. I think I took pictures of almost every animal that we passed. We were invited to an all natural, home cooked lunch of mote con queso de cabra (corn with goat cheese).

After, as I took pictures of all their animals, they smiled and laughed at me as I used the excuse, “I’m like a Japanese tourist.” To me, donkeys pulling carts, herds of sheep and baby goats were exotic!

I loved Tambogrande, a small town where you could view the entire city from El Mirador, left to right, north to south. And I can’t complain about it being sunny all the time. I even got to experience the señor who has taken it onto himself to play his radio and make his announcement on speakerphone at around 6 every morning. I could imagine myself serving in Tambogrande, except for the crazy hot weather. Even in winter, the sun ironed down and we were sweating! I can’t imagine how it is in its warm season!

So my highlights and major happenings of this week were:

-Seeing the Fe y Alegrias in the beautiful campo settings, as well as the river house
-Trying the Algarrobina drink- yummy! (Algarrobina is a syrup like substance made from the Black Carob tree that people put in drinks). We also saw the oldest Algarrobina tree called “El Rey” that is 100 years old!
-Being called Keiko (past President Alberto Fujimori’s daughter, who is running for president for 2011)by everyone when we went to the market in Tambogrande
-The hours and hours spent on buses (seemed like 50% of our trip)
-Going to the border town of Macara, Ecuador and simply walking across the border, without showing anything, only answering “SI” when the guards asked us if we were “paseando” and later Loja, Ecuador. Only to be told when we tried to enter back into Peru that we had entered “illegally,” the first guards laughing at us, brushing it off because we girls were simply just silly and were not doing anything shady. We had no idea because when we walked past our first day, there was no office or anything we could see to get stamped. However, the second security threatening us that we did something terrible and threatening me, putting me on the “list” for if I did anything a second time. Apparently, it would have been ok if we had just stayed in Macara instead of going to Loja. Haha.
-The way that people spoke like they were singing their words in Piura.

Check out my pictures at: http://picasaweb.google.com/107425425446859607474/FirstWeekOfFiestasPatriasVacation?feat=directlink